GÉNÉRATEUR MID

This shoe is STIFF... When you put it on, it feels like you have laced up a protective barrier that will insulate your feet and ankles from any abrasion, torsion, or impact. It almost feels more like a boot. This means much longer break-in period and ultimately less sensitivity in exchange for extreme support and bomber performance in cracks.

I found it much stiffer than the TC Pro, and its upper is also more cushioned. When appropriately sized (not too downsized) you can crank in a toe jam and comfortably commit your whole bodyweight. The stiffness makes kneebars and heel-toe jamming take much less effort. It's especially nice when the crack has sharp edges or uneven features/pebbles that dig into your feet. However, if you are not used to climbing in stiff shoes, it can take some serious adjustment in footwork technique to get used to this shoe.

The stiffness and thickness also makes it warmer, which was a huge asset for putting up alpine first ascents in the Himalaya in variable conditions. The only minor downside of this shoe is that the tongue material can delaminate after some use if you are not gentle with it when lacing and unlacing.

Fit comfortably enough out of the box for an all day alpine trad route in the North Cascades as my second session in them (risky I know). I sized up a size from what I'd wear for performance in other scarpa shoes. My only wish is that the womens/low volume went above size 42 as I have lower volume but long feet. Thanks for making the long days possible with these!

I really love this shoe but I should not have bought online. Given how snug my Vapors fit I figured go up from 45.0 to 45.5 for these ones, but they are too roomy, even with socks. I wear my vapors bare foot and the breakin was pretty painful but they fit awesome now. Otherwise they are just fantastic - plenty of room up front for all day comfort but a little too much room in the heel. If I trade these and get a new pair for sure I'll get the same size as my Vapor Velcros.

I've been wearing the Generator Mid for all my granite missions this summer, after being gifted a pair earlier this spring. In times past I wore a similar model from a competitor. I liked those. I found these to be similar but more comfortable. I think the comfort comes from the fact that they have a slightly wider toe box. Up around the ankle there is also more padding, though this isn't as much of an issue/importance to me. The lacing system is also better. With the crack shoes I'd used previously, the lacing had to be super wide because I have a slightly wider toe box. Comfortable enough for all-day missions. I just used them for a 32 pitch day on the Salbitschijen West Ridge. These allowed for more normal lacing. I've been using them hard for over 30 days and the rubber still hasn't lost it's edge. Overall, it's an excellent all-day shoe for crack intensive climbing.