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An Erickson Adventure: Tajikistan
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Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

An Erickson Adventure: Tajikistan

BY Kris Erickson

BY Kris Erickson

There is a wide variety of thoughts that come to mind when people say “Family Vacation”. Some think of Vacationthe 1983 classic film staring Chevy Chase. I was around the age of nine when it debuted, quickly becoming a cult film that led to many sequels poking fun at what has been a part of almost everyone’s life growing up. Fast forward to 2024, half of a century has passed and my wife Cloe and our teenage daughter are deciding where to go on our family vacation. Noor is 15, the age of adolescence associated with rebellious behavior, lack of desire to be with parents and a drive to gain independence. A family vacation in remote mountains of the world with no internet connection would normally be challenging to sell to a teenage girl. However, lucky for us, Noor needed no convincing when we mentioned a family adventure to the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. When I was 15, the USSR was just starting to fall apart. By 1991, the USSR was in a state of collapse and the Tajikistan Soviet Socialist Republic the last republic to declare its independence. Since gaining their independence, Tajikistan has had the same president, spent five years in civil war, and in general, suffers from wide spread poverty and instability. It is not exactly the first place that comes to mind for a “Family Vacation” but when Cloe suggested the Pamir mountains I was instantly hooked on the idea. We wanted a mountain range with good weather in August, interesting history and culture, plus remote and wild mountains thatdidn’t have internet and cell service. Tajikistan, is mostly a dry and very mountainous country bordered by Afghanistan to the south, China to the east, and Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north. We wanted an adventure and Tajikistan was sure to deliver!Arriving the first week of August we had three weeks of time to explore the Shughnon region of the of the Western Pamir Mountains. Accessing the area involves three days of rough driving on the Silk Road bordering Afghanistan. The travel is worth it, as it has hundreds of glaciated peaks under 6000 meters with grassy valleys below. Each of the valleys is connected by dozens of turquoise lakes making it an ideal corner of the range to trek and explore. We had three goals with our expedition; have fun,connect as a family, and take advantage of a few of the summits along the way. We hired the local tour operator, Pamir Tours to help us with logistics and put together a team to support our trekking and basecamp needs. In addition to our family we took on four more. Firuz, our local fixer of all things. Gosha, our cook and donkey wrangler, his assistant Shogun and a third helper Nasser, a true Pamir legend of the mountains. Together with six donkeys and everything we needed for several weeks of trekking and climbing we quested into the range to see what adventure was waiting for us. Unlike Nepal, no peak permits are required and there is very little to no information available on the mountains. I wasn’t certain what we would find. I had a rough group of peaks selected that I had pin pointed on Google Earth and through some crumbs left in the cybersphere. The climbing objectives had to be decided once we were there and could see what the current conditions provided. An inspirational way to push off into the mountains in search of adventure. We trekked daily, summited two 5000 meter peaks, and enjoyed the remoteness of the Pamir Mountain life along the way.

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    A beautiful moment as I stood on the summit and circled around. I looked over at Cloe and saw an amazing reflection in her sunglasses: the summit of Peak 5450m with Noor resting while we all took in the spectacular views of incredible mountains in every direction. It was unclear if anyone had summited the peak prior to us. There was no visible summit cairn or remains from other climbers. The AD+ style glacier route up the north side of the mountain was 750m in elevation gain from our high camp with perfect weather.


    Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

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    I love the feeling after arriving at high camp and everything is set in order; water on the stove, pads are in place and I can take a moment to relax and enjoy the views. Cloe was curious to see how comfortable it was going to be with the three of us together in our little Assault 3 tent. High camp on the first mountain 4900m.


    Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

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    We had been moving since 3:00AM with the altimeter reading 5380m... I knew from the map we were getting close to the summit. Never pass up an opportunity to take a photo. Cloe and Noor pausing after the rock step on Peak 5450m.


    Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

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    Near the end of the trek after having climbed two 5000-meter peaks Noor was sitting between Gosha on the right and Firuz to the left. They were amazed at how a 15-year-old kid could trek and climb the way she did. Asking her what her plans were after this, she explained her winter season of biathlon waiting for her back in France.


    Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

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    Summit selfie with the range to the south behind us. The morning started with some clouds in the distance but enough blue to keep us moving upward. As we progressed up the route it was clear the weather was deteriorating quickly and we needed to summit and descend before we were trapped in the storm high on the peak. We hadn't seen any evidence of others camping at our high camp area and nothing along the route from previous climbers but this peak was very accessible from the base camp area and it would have been possible for someone to have potentially climbed the East ridge prior to us. AD 660m Peak 5560m.


    Photo: Kristoffer Erickson



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