Adam Wirth and family hiking in the Dolomites
Photo: Adam Wirth
BY The Wirth Family
As Adam and I sat with our laptops and maps planning our 20 year anniversary trip to Italy, I joked that he really tricked me back in 2002. When we met in Nebraska, my expectation of adult life was weekends on a boat on the Missouri River or maybe walking 18 holes of golf. Fast forward 20 years and it has instead been a wild adventure living in the mountain west, hiking, biking and enjoying raising our kids to be true mountain goats.
Adam put together a route that included some via ferrata, but also allowed us to stay at different refugios along the way. There are hundreds of refugios scattered in the high peaks across the range, providing full-service meals, beds and even showers for weary travelers, definitely a step up from a backpacking meal and inflatable mattress.
Via ferrata literally means “iron path.” Scattered amongst the beautiful trails are a series of cables, anchors and small iron steps that allow users to scale rock faces that look unclimbable without ropes and technical climbing gear. Guidebooks rate each ferrata based on difficulty and access. Traditional via ferrata gear is a standard climbing harness and a set of two safety lanyards that you clip into the cables as you ascend and descend the routes.
The Dolomites are strikingly different from any other mountain range I have witnessed. The scale and vastness of the terrain gives us a glimpse back 250 million years to when the European and African tectonic plates collided forcing these fossilized coral reefs to the sky. In a matter of a couple miles you witness spires resembling the towers of a gothic church to rounded massifs looking more like the moon, all of this hanging above green valleys filled with wildflowers and the clanging of cow bells.
We set off on a 40 mile traverse with three refugio reservations in between long days on our feet. Initially, we thought taking chair lifts and gondolas up and down on our route would seem like cheating, but to get to the various peaks and high plateaus we wanted to reach, it was necessary. In addition to support with the lift-accessed peaks, the refugios meant no tents or stoves so our packs were lighter than a normal backpacking mission. The initial path was crowded with hikers of all ages and abilities. I let myself think for a moment, “hmm maybe this will be easier than I thought?”
I learned quickly, as we began our first via ferrata of the route, that the feeling of safety provided by the cables doesn’t necessarily mean the heart rate will be any lower. We moved slowly through the via ferrata section, mainly because I am a cautious climber at best. Everyone in our group took turns being behind me, helping me with hand and foot holds and the best times to switch my lanyards on the cable. My kids are naturals when it comes to moving through the mountains, they were so patient in helping me through the technical sections.
Our trip took us up and down nearly 6,000 feet of elevation changes each day, so even without via ferrata missions on day two and three, we were grateful every evening to reach our planned refugios, wondering what would be on the dinner menus waiting for us. The simple process of removing your hiking shoes and stacking them on a shelf with all the other boarders for the night, a standard procedure in all refugios, was mentally rewarding and provided a visual reminder of shared miles to get to the beautiful settings.
The iron cables and small iron steps provided both a literal and figurative guide rail for me. The comfort I had when I was clipped in helped me get more comfortable in tougher terrain, I felt like I broke through physical and mental barriers, improving my skills like downclimbing through rocky ledges. I explored the guidebook on our trip, learning that one of our routes would have a route that described a few required “strenuous moves” involving high, vertical ladders. I had actually read the guidebook this time to be more prepared about what to expect. I opted out of that route and had a lovely, solo hike, meeting everyone up at the bottom of the gondola over beers and fries.
We had one final morning mission up the cables on a via ferrata was a short hike from the road, ending with a picnic lunch at the bottom. With the easy access, it was more crowded than the higher mountain routes, but it was interesting to watch everyone’s varied approach to the rocks and terrain and chat with climbers and guides from around the world while we waited for people to snake up the steep terrain.
As we drove away from the Dolomites, I was grateful for the time spent in this magical place. Being in the mountains with my family is always a blessing, but to get to experience the Dolomites for the first time with Adam and the kids was mind blowing. I know that I will miss those iron cables on my next climb in the Tetons, but I also know that the confidence I gained while using the via ferrata will translate to more technical missions at home. My kids are already planning my first ascent up the Grand Teton.
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