Alpinism: A Sport of Principles, Not Points

The Freedom of Alpine Style

Alpinism is not an Olympic sport, and that’s exactly what makes it unique. Unlike regulated sports where rules dictate the game, in alpinism, we are our own referees.

When IFMGA guide Alan Rousseau recounted his climb up Jannu, he said:

“We completed the line in a style that we feel proud of.”

Good for you, Alan! Because that is what alpinism is about—not points, but style.

This fundamental belief leads to a core principle:

What Is Alpine Style?

Alpine style means:
✔️ Climbing with only what fits in your backpack
✔️ No supplemental oxygen
✔️ No fixed ropes set by others
✔️ One single push—start at base camp, make it to the top (or not), and return by your own means

Langtang Valley: An Alpinist’s Paradise

A Forgotten Corner of the Himalaya

If your motivations align with these principles, then Langtang Valley, Nepal, is a true alpinist’s paradise.

Here, pristine rivers carve through jagged peaks, many of them untouched or rarely climbed.

• Unlike the crowded 8000m peaks, Langtang remains a hidden gem.
• While some summits have been reached, many routes remain unexplored.

For me and my longtime climbing partner, Ossy Freire, this valley was the perfect choice.

Choosing Our Peaks: Yansa Tenji & Gangchempo

A Shared Vision with Ossy

Ossy and I share the same motivation and style. There’s rarely a need to discuss objectives—our understanding runs deep.

When I proposed a trip to Langtang Valley, Ossy accepted without even seeing a photo of the mountain. That’s how much we trust each other.

Planning the Expedition

We set our sights on two peaks:
✔️ Yansa Tenji
✔️ Gangchempo

Having previously scouted the area, I had a clear strategy in mind:

• Each peak would take four days round trip from the village of Kyanjin Gompa.
• Day 1-2: Establish camp near the technical face.
• Day 3: Summit push.
• Day 4: Descend and return.

Yansa Tenji: A Climb Through the Alpenglow

The Summit Push

• Date: October 27
• Starting Altitude: 5100m (camp near a small lake)
• Start Time: 11:00 p.m.

The first two hours involved navigating crevasses until we reached the bergschrund, where the real climbing began.

• First Section: 150m of simultaneous climbing until snow turned to ice.
• Second Section: Steep snow flutes (50° inclination).
• Final Section: A sequence of ice ramps up to 90°.

A Climb Marked by Beauty and Fatigue

As we neared the final two pitches, the sunset painted the Himalayas in an alpenglow that no picture could capture.

From the summit, we took in:
✔️ Sisha Pagma (Tibet side)
✔️ Langtang Lirung (Nepal side, with its unclimbed east face)

After a brief rest, we began the long, cold descent—20 rappels back down the same route.

The Third Presence: A Mysterious Experience

An Unseen Team Member?

Halfway down, something strange happened.

I felt like there was a third climber on our rope team.

• I instinctively wanted to give this person instructions, but I stopped myself out of fear of sounding crazy.
• I focused on moving carefully, as if they were really there.

The next day, Ossy asked me:

“Flaco, ¿sentiste un tercero ayer en la bajada?”
(Did you feel a third person with us yesterday?)

We had both experienced the same “hallucination”, giving it a fictional identity—something “between fairies and unicorns.”

Was it fatigue, or was it something else? Either way, its presence kept us focused for nearly 30 hours of non-stop climbing and descending.

Gangchempo: The Ice-Filled Ascent

A Longer Approach

• We advanced east through Langtang Valley and set camp at 4600m.
• The next day, we gained altitude to 5200m, setting up camp at the entrance of the glacier.

The Climb: Cold Therapy at Its Finest

• Date: November 3
• Start Time: 1:00 a.m.
• Bergschrund Crossing: 5600m

We climbed a direct couloir filled with snow and ice flutes, reminiscent of Peru’s Andean walls.

• Inclination: 50°
• Key Sections: AI4+ with small 90° passages
• Time to Summit: 13 hours

After celebrating briefly, we descended the same route, skipping Camp 1 and heading straight to 4600m.

This climb was named:

“Thérapie par le froid” (Cold Therapy)
Due to the extreme temperatures of the north face ascent.

The Essence of Alpinism: Climbing for the Love of It

Friendship and Adventure Over Fame

These climbs were done among friends, with no greater goal than experiencing a mountain adventure in a style that makes us feel at peace.

If our story inspires others, that’s great. We hope to:
✔️ Encourage more climbers to explore Langtang.
✔️ Support greater diversity in alpinism, especially for climbers of color.

The Truth About First Ascents

It’s worth noting that Langtang Valley has been the site of many undocumented ascents.

While Gangchempo may have been climbed before, official records have assigned us the first ascent—though we know the mountains hold many untold stories.

Here’s to many more climbs and the unwritten adventures yet to come!