INSTINCT S

The Instinct family of shoes is one of the VERY BEST EVER in the history of climbing. They are capable of anything, depending on how you size them, and with multiple fit options -- there is absolutely an Instinct shoe for EVERYONE. However, these are not beginner shoes, and require a premium price due to the materials and very complex construction. If you aren't precise with your footwork, you will burn thru these shoes quickly... and most any high performance climbing shoes. (Check out the amazing Origin shoes for a more inexpensive and durable option). The lower volume Instinct models work the best for me, and I prefer Grip rubber more often as well, so I mostly use the "women's" models in the velcro and the lace, but I have climbed a lot in every single model in the family. The slipper has it's own fit, and it works really well for me. It's not a stiff shoe, but it is stiff for a slipper. It's great for route climbing or long training sessions. It offers a really precise fit despite being so easy to put on and get off. This boot has really redefined the limits of a slipper, and I use it a lot. It's comfortable and supportive, yet technical, sensitive and exacting. It's a special model in the Instinct family, and I use it many days out of the year.

I'll start by saying I love all the instinct shoes, they've been my go to shoe for years. Now, the slipper adaptation has been great. Still aggressive with a snug fit, this thing works wonders on steep boulders but can edge and handle face climbing. The only issue I have had is overtime, the heel can become loose. Mind you this is after climbing over a year in them, and is only really noticeable when very aggressively heel hooking. I found the solution is to rub a bit of chalk on my heel and boom, good as new again.

Initially I was wary of the $210 price tag considering these are just slippers. After climbing in them for a couple months though? These are the real deal. These are not just board climbing slippers for general indoor training. Assuming you fit them properly (which is important with slippers), these are IMO a fairly substantial upgrade from the other Instincts. Better toe took rubber than the VS and VSR, a more aggressive heel rand with more rubber coverage, and a slight love bump make this just a better shoe than the other Instincts. I'd love to see the VS/VSR fitted with the tech in these shoes in the future.

They are not as soft as you might expect, but they are a bit softer than the VS, especially after break in. I don't have experience with the VSR, but I imagine the S is just a tad softer. They edge well, they heel hook amazingly, they smear well, and they're just as comfy as the other Instincts. Love these on sandstone especially. They do fit a bit tighter in the toe box compared to the other Instincts, though I'd still recommend sizing down a half-size from your regular Instinct size as the upper does stretch a bit.

The one downside I've experienced is that these wear quite quickly due to the shape of the toe and the thin 3.5mm grip2 rubber. I've noticed they wear a lot right where the sole meets the rand at the very front of the shoe. Expect to resole within 6 months if your climbing is both indoor and outdoor 3-4 days a week.